An Introvert Explores the World: Land of Fire and Ice

Florida’s winters are envied by much of the world, and throngs of snowbirds flock to the state during the winter months to escape the frigid temperatures of the northern United States. It would seem illogical for a native Floridian to abandon the state during its most ideal weather, squandering the rare opportunity to venture outside without instantly succumbing to heat stroke. But that is exactly what I chose to do one December day. But rather than leaving for an even more tropical destination like a sane person, I ventured to the extreme opposite climate by flying to the northernmost capital city in the entire world – Reykjavik, Iceland – during the middle of the winter solstice. This meant that I was greeted by two unfamiliar hosts upon my arrival – freezing temperatures and daytime darkness.

Iceland in the winter has several perks that make it worthwhile, including the opportunity to see frozen waterfalls, witness spurting geysers, hike across glaciers, and explore prismatic ice caves, all of which I was fortunate to experience. Each of these are worthy of their own post, but they are not the focus of today. This particular adventure starts with climbing into a different type of cave – a lava tube. Iceland is known as the land of fire and ice, and that is a well-deserved moniker. Beneath all of the snowfields and glaciers lies one of the most active volcanic regions in the world, which came to the forefront of everyone’s attention in 2010 when Eyjafjallajökull erupted and disrupted travel plans for millions.

Another similar volcano erupted over 5000 years ago, creating a slow-moving lava flow that formed an outer crust upon exposure to the cold temperatures. This caused the external crust layer to harden while the internal lava flow continued to stream through, eventually leaving an empty shell. Today this shell remains as an explorable volcanic tunnel that stretches for nearly a mile in length. Donning my hard hat and headlamp, I descend into the Raufarhólshellir lava tunnel. The cave is a reddish hue due to the mineral-laden volcanic rocks, and this bloody tint lends an eerie atmosphere to the experience. Because I am visiting in winter, the floor is slippery with ice, and there are frozen stalagmites and stalactites scattered about, formed by water dripping from the ceiling. The area within the cavern is quite expansive in some locations, which is impressive when you consider the entire tube had been filled with a river of molten lava at one point. Overall, the lava tunnel was relatively similar to other caves I’d been in before, but knowing it was created from a completely different process made it an intriguing visit.

The true highlight of the evening was the hunt for the fleeting lights of the aurora borealis, visible near the Arctic Circle during the dark winter months. In the middle of the night, you could find our small band of travelers venturing along empty backroads of the Icelandic wilderness searching for the perfect spot. After an uneventful evening, a faint glow started to develop in the distant sky, igniting a spark of hope deep within my soul. Could this be the elusive light of the Valkyries’ reflective armor, leading deceased Viking warriors toward Odin in Valhalla? This mythological aura was slowly coming to life in front of my eyes as the floating green hue began to grow in size. It twisted and contorted across the sky, building in intensity as the minutes passed. Staring at the sky, I was mesmerized by these northern lights that swirled and danced overhead, capturing the gaze of everyone below. My heart soared in rhythm with the piercing glow above, and I willed for this moment to last for eternity. Alas, the ephemerality of these mystical lights meant that the experience lasted long enough to appreciate this wonder of nature while wondering if it was all a dream. I count myself lucky to have been able to view the lights during one cold night in Iceland, and yearn to encounter them again one day in the future.

Having achieved this major bucket list item during my sojourn into the land of fire and ice, my short stay in Iceland was quickly coming to a close. On my final day, I had booked a late afternoon flight back home with the sole intention of spending the entire day relaxing in the geothermal waters of the Blue Lagoon. I caught the first bus of the day to the lagoon, and shortly after stowing my luggage and hitting the requisite showers, I donned my bathing suit and stepped outside. You’ve never experienced bitter cold until you are standing outside half-naked on a dark wintery morning in Iceland, fully exposed to the frigid temperatures and gusty breezes. Covered in goosebumps and beset by rigidly tense muscles, I managed to defy my shivering body and head toward the beckoning waters… and what an instant relief it was to immerse myself! The lagoon is a magical byproduct of superheated water from a nearby lava flow that is harnessed for thermal energy prior to filling the lagoon with a comfortable 100 degree temperature bath. This heat instantly soothed my muscles and brought me to a blissful nirvana in a matter of seconds.

The Blue Lagoon deservedly earns the honor of being the most-visited tourist site in the entire country, and it is essential to arrive early. As daylight does not dawn until around 11am in the winter, the first couple hours of my visit were spent in a serene dark fog that helped to create the illusion of being the sole inhabitant in a foreign land. I floated around for hours in the curious pastel blue waters, trying out the various amenities such as silica mud masks applied to my face, beverages sipped beside a swim up bar, and a steam sauna hot enough to melt away any muscle pains. So much relaxation in which to partake, surely I must have discovered paradise! Suddenly, as if to quell any notions that this was a tamed paradise, Iceland decided to remind me that this is the land of fire AND ice, and subsequently released a barrage of sleet onto its unwitting victims below. The stinging of this frozen rain felt like ice needles were being hurled from the heavens, and everyone flocked to the covered regions of the pool, eager to escape Odin’s fury. But the blitz was short-lived, and soon it dissipated into oblivion, leaving no trace of its existence aside from pelt marks on wary swimmers. Soon we had all returned to the task of relaxation and quickly picked up where we had left off.

All in all, I experienced a wide range of weather phenomena during my visit, and glimpsed firsthand at some of the struggles that early settlers much have endured. Iceland holds a vast wealth of natural wonders for such a small island, and dares all visitors to experience its untamed beauty. Despite abandoning the tepid winters of my hometown for the bracing and at times unbearable arctic cold, I felt like I made the winning choice. This trip focused on the beauty of nature and the wild forces that it controls, and I will always look back with fondness on my time spent here, and long for the day I can return yet again… although this time hopefully in the pleasant summer months!