The mere mention of France conjures up vivid images in
people’s minds: the lofty spire of the Eiffel Tower sparkling at night, the
palatial Louvre museum housing some of the world’s most famous artwork, and the
magnificent chateaux of the Loire region showcasing the wealth and power of
their original owners. But one particular image is so synonymous with France that
it isn’t confined to a single location and is ubiquitously found in every corner of the country – the fine dining of French cuisine.
French haute-cuisine is world-renowned as high-quality gourmet dishes created
by master chefs, and evokes an air of arrogance served by haughty waiters. But underneath
this pompous façade lies a plethora of amazingly delicious food that is an essential
indulgence when visiting the country.
It is into this culinary world that I enter one evening,
stepping into a fancy restaurant to experience a traditional multi-course
dinner and being immediately greeted by waitstaff wearing specially tailored
suits. I feel conspicuously under-dressed in my wrinkled khakis and polo shirt,
but am politely ushered to an empty table and handed a menu written entirely in
French. Fortunately, I took several years of French language classes in high
school and college, so I have a rudimentary understanding of basic phrases that
allows me to stumble through ordering dinner. After browsing through the menu
and hearing his recommendations, I place my order with the waiter in broken
French, and he leaves to inform the kitchen.
A basket of freshly baked bread rolls is swiftly placed
on the table, which is a welcome sight to my grumbling stomach. I immediately
swoop in and place a roll on my plate, eagerly anticipating the taste of fresh bread
smothered in melting butter to whet my appetite. Rather than tear the bread
apart with my fingers like an American barbarian, I assume an air of elegance
in this fancy restaurant and pick up my knife to slice the roll in half.
Without explanation, my hand slips and the bread roll flies off my plate and lives
up to its name by continuing to roll halfway across the restaurant, nearly
tripping a passing waiter. To add injury to insult, I notice that my hand is
the same color as the red flush of utter embarrassment washing across my face.
Despite using a dull butter knife to cut the bread, I had somehow managed to slice
open my finger with the blunt blade, and a stream of blood was draining from my
flesh. Grabbing the closest object I could find to stanch the bleeding, I wrapped
my finger with the elegant white cloth napkin from my lap, forever staining the
napkin with my ineptitude. Despite wanting to run out of the restaurant in
humiliation, I kept my composure and anxiously waited for the appetizer to
arrive to distract my nerves.
My first dish finally arrived, and I could smell the comingling
scents of butter and garlic emanating from my escargot platter. Keen to redeem
my prior blunder, I carefully reached for my fork and cautiously ate each
delicious morsel of escargot one methodical bite at a time. Despite the unappealing
impression that eating snails can evoke in people, I truly found them to be delicious,
and I savored each one with delight. Having eaten the final escargot without
any further mishaps, I was regaining my confidence and ready to take on the
next course of the meal.
The meal fortunately progressed without any more troubles,
and I devoured the remaining dishes of the dinner which included some braised
chicken in wine sauce (coq au vin) and a little bit of duck liver (foie gras)
as a side. After the main courses were completed, I opted for the cheese tray
to accompany dessert. The French truly prize their diverse cheeses, and I
wanted to partake in this experience. Not realizing that a cheese course was such
a production, I was startled when the waiter rolled over a large cart filled
with twenty types of cheeses underneath a plastic lid. My mouth began to salivate
at the thought of tasting new flavors of cheese that I’d never heard of before.
With a quick motion of his arm, the waiter lifted the lid
off the tray, exposing the prized contents… and that’s when it happened. The
olfactory overload of the combination of intense cheese odors hit my nose with
a fierce uppercut, causing me to reflexively cringe in repulsion before I could
regain my composure. Smirking in victory at having conquered yet another boorish American, the waiter proceeded to describe each particular cheese in lengthy detail,
starting with the hard cheeses and gradually concluding with the soft and moldy goat
cheeses that literally melted on the plate from decay. Throughout the entire
demonstration, the scents of atrociously smelly cheeses enveloped the entire
table, settling like a cloud upon my being and soaking into my clothes. Holding
my breath and starting to go faint at this point, I quickly pointed at a couple
of the less repellant cheeses and made my selection in the hopes that the lid
of death would soon be lowered back onto the tray. After a dramatic display of
slicing the cheeses and delicately placing them onto my plate, the waiter obliged my silent pleas and finally sealed up the rancid dairy display and rolled it onward to the next
unwitting victim.
Recovering from the attack on my senses as the air slowly
cleared, I began to taste my cheese selections with trepidation, and they were surprisingly delicious!
Turns out you can’t necessarily judge a cheese by its pungency, because I
savored each bite with honest delight and cleaned the entire plate. At the end
of a nearly three hour dinner, my stomach was stuffed and my eyelids were
starting to droop from exhaustion. Emptying out the rest of my bank account, I
paid the waiter and thanked him for a wonderful dinner despite appearances to
the contrary, and I began the short walk back to the hotel. For many reasons,
this would be a traditional French meal I would never forget, as it had pushed
all of my senses to the limit. And in the process, I apparently found the trick
to clearing out a wide path on a busy sidewalk as well, as all the pedestrians avoided the
cloud of cheese funk that wafted around me the entire solitary stroll home.
The infamous cheese tray on full display
Some foie gras delicately prepared
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