My Travels To Date

My Travels To Date
My travels to date -- so much left to see!

Saturday, August 29, 2020

The Murderous Garmina

Traveling through continental Europe by rental car is surprisingly easy and convenient. Effortless access to rental cars at the airports and an efficient highway system on which to drive them throughout the various countries make this a seamless process. Despite some websites claiming that you will need to obtain an International Driver’s Permit (IDP) from a local AAA office prior to your trip, I have never found this added expense to be necessary – a basic US driver’s license has been sufficient every single time I have rented a car in Europe. You may remember my struggles with driving on the left side of the road in Ireland, but that particular difficulty is isolated to the British Isles; just like the majority of the world, mainland Europe drives on the right side of the road which makes for easy acclimatization for road-tripping Americans. The final vital component for a successful highway adventure is an updated GPS navigation system with European maps pre-loaded (or a phone with an excellent international plan as an alternative). Enter Garmina, our steadfast guide and occasional archnemesis who frequently seemed to be plotting our untimely demise.

While driving through the Loire Valley in northern France on one trip, we visited several magnificent chateaux each day, traversing along the scenic backroads without any incidents. However, one day we planned to see the off-the-beaten-path troglodyte Château de Brézé, which has a vast subterranean portion of the castle built deep into the soft limestone tufa. I’m unsure what incited Garmina to morph from a disinterested navigator into a vindictive murderer, but it was on our journey to this chateau that her true form appeared. While driving through the rural roads of the French countryside, there was an empty portion of the map that we were being led toward. Without warning, the road abruptly ended at the edge of a meadow where we clearly were not intended to drive our car. With much conviction, Garmina insisted that we continue to drive straight ahead along her imaginary road, despite the obvious lack of asphalt. And that’s when we noticed the large bilingual road sign that was conspicuously placed to be unmissable while also blocking any path forward. It was not your standard “No Trespassing” sign, by any means. Instead, the sign boldly stated in red and black letters:

“DANGER – MILITARY LAND – UNEXPLOSED PROJECTILES ON THE RANGES – DO NOT LEAVE THE ROAD”


Despite its lack of being an actual word, the definition of “unexplosed” came through loud and clear. I wasn’t about to confront fate over a misspelling and fall victim to the evil machinations of my GPS device. Instead, we backtracked and took several narrow offshooting farm lanes in an effort to bypass the minefield. But every time that Garmina decided to reroute our path, she perpetually led us back to yet another entrance to the death trap. Perhaps she was experiencing some perverse form of sadistic excitement by leading us once more unto the breach of a former battleground to bravely join the fray, but I preferred the monotony of staying alive. In a self-preserving manner, we had to mute the homicidal maniac and follow our own detour around the military zone, eventually escaping certain death and coming out victorious by discovering our destination. I had previously been grateful to have an authoritative voice guiding me throughout this foreign land, but now I realized that the seductive Garmina was not to be trusted and had become a loathed rival after the shock of our nasty breakup finally came to realization. And yet, as much as we despised each other, we also needed each other to accomplish our individual purposes…

After surviving Garmina’s failed attempt to blow our car to smithereens, we cautiously made it through the rest of the vacation without any further incidents. Having reconciled our differences at the completion of the vacation, we decided to let Garmina redeem herself during a future road trip through Italy. Similarly to the previous trip, Garmina started out wonderfully helpful, using her sultry voice to direct us from town to town until we ultimately arrived in the city of Naples. While we were driving along the main thoroughfare of the city on a pleasant weekend afternoon, Garmina abruptly interrupted our conversation and began redirecting us along an alternate route for no obvious reason. Fearing an unseen accident or road closure ahead, we faithfully changed course and let our path be dictated by the omniscient guide. At the next intersection we approached a one-way street, onto which Garmina commandingly told us to turn, and so without hesitation we turned the corner and came face to face with an unexpected sight.

As far as the eye could see down the long stretch of road was an outdoor market lined with stalls and hundreds of locals out shopping. The side street was narrow and left virtually no room to proceed amongst the shoppers. Furthermore, since this was a one-way street, there was absolutely no hope of turning around and escaping from whence we came, especially after another small vehicle blindly followed us around the corner, thereby robbing us of our last ditch opportunity to reverse and make a hasty getaway. Faced with no alternatives, we bravely forged a path into the bustling market. The pedestrians had to press up against the sides of the stalls as we inched forward, and occasionally the shopkeepers even had to move their wares to prevent them from being knocked over. We received numerous death stares from vendors and shoppers as we passed, and I sunk down into my passenger seat to avoid seeing the wrath of the outside world. Had the stalls been filled with items other than fresh fish and local produce, I might have rolled down my window, browsed the contents from my car seat, and haggled for a fair price while doing a slow drive-by. But as it was, I was filled with such embarrassment that I couldn’t even make eye contact with the vendors as I hid in my seat.

After what seemed like the longest stretch of road we’d ever driven, during which we narrowly avoided taking out several hobbling grandmothers in the process, the outdoor market finally dissipated and then came to an end. At last, freedom was within sight! We finally emerged from the market after a white-knuckled drive through the gauntlet, and somehow survived to tell our tale without any casualties. Breathing a deep sigh of relief at withstanding the humiliating ordeal, we continued down the path until Garmina decided to break the silence and resume speaking. She unapologetically demanded that we turn at the next intersection and rejoin our initial path from which we had been diverted by our evil mistress. Once we got back on the main road through town, we could clearly see that there had been no accident or slowdown of any kind – the sparse traffic was moving along at a steady pace without obstruction. Apparently our 20 minute detour through a crowded street market had been part of Garmina’s diabolical plan all along to make us suffer and remind us who was truly in charge of our trip. Even though we pulled through unscathed, Garmina had won her small victory yet again.

Gluttons for punishment, we continue to bring Garmina with us on future vacations, where she repeatedly rebels from her designated “third wheel” status in this relationship and tries to sabotage our road trips across Europe. In Germany, she blatantly disregarded the posted road signs and told us to continue onto a highway that had been partially closed for construction work. Had we been able to understand the German language signs, we may have been able to prevent this disaster, but she knew that we could not read German and were therefore unable to prevent the impending trap. As a result of surviving another of Garmina’s schemes, the German word for detour (umleitung) has been deeply burned into my memory, surprisingly coming in handy on numerous occasions during the rest of the trip and allowing us to circumvent any further shenanigans by Garmina. Or that one time in Spain where Garmina knowingly guided our car down an unmarked pedestrian alley through the mazelike center of town which gradually became so narrow that even with our side view mirrors folded inward, there was no physical way of advancing. We were forced to reverse around multiple tight corners for several blocks until we were back on a true road again, which was a harrowing experience.

Despite these distressing driving mishaps that seem to happen with regularity on our European road trips, I would never give up the opportunity to forge our own path through a foreign land. Driving gives you a freedom you can’t get with public transportation or tour groups, and allows you to spontaneously make detours and stop at any roadside attraction or oddity that you stumble across while driving to your next destination. And even if you happen to get into a bit of a bind while traveling, this only serves to give you an unforgettable story to regale others with in the future! And this all serves to show that you really need to pick your travel companions with care – especially when it comes to navigation systems like our dear Garmina!


Saturday, August 22, 2020

The Duende of Flamenco


The Andalusian region in southern Spain is one of my favorite regions in all of Europe for multiple reasons. Moorish-style buildings dominate the architectural landscape with their intricately carved designs of geometric shapes and calligraphy, interspersed with beautiful arches that evoke awe in the observer. Gastronomic appetites are satiated with dishes of jamón ibérico (cured Iberian ham), croquetas, tortilla de patatas (potato quiche), and churros con chocolat for dessert. And who could forget marzipan, the sweet nectar of the gods handmade by local nuns and sold from behind stone convent walls via a rotating turntable contraption to maintain their cloistered sabbatical from outside interaction. But the true heart and soul of Andalusia is expressed through the artistry of the flamenco dance, which can be experienced at tablao venues throughout the region.

No visit to Andalusia is complete without attending at least one flamenco show, and Seville has the best offerings around. From flashy productions that attract large numbers of tourists each night, to intimate stages where the audience is practically within arm’s reach of the performers, there is a wide array of options to experience a flamenco show. Since I was spending several nights in the city of Seville, I opted to attend two vastly different flamenco shows to get a better perspective of the offerings.

For my first venture into the world of flamenco, I decided to go with the touristy “dinner and a show” flamenco experience at El Palacio Andaluz. This is the most heavily advertised show in the city, drawing in the largest number of spectators that want an easily accessible taste of culture. The venue was located in a large ballroom packed with dinner tables for all of the tourists who are looking for a nicely packaged experience handed to them on a platter. Upon being escorted to my assigned table, I was handed an English menu and I made my meal selection. Next up in the rotation of employees was a photographer entreating me to smile and pose for the camera, shortly followed by a sales pitch about the different options for purchasing my souvenir photograph. Next came the waiters bringing the standard dinner fare as the show was about the begin.

The lights dimmed and the performers made their grand entrance onto the stage with much gusto and flair. The standard flamenco show includes several guitarists sitting in the background, so as not to detract attention from the female performers. The guitarists blend mournful vocals and well-timed handclaps and foot stomps to add intensity to the music. While typically relegated to be background, they perform an integral role in creating the soulful music that draws at your heartstrings and pulls your emotions along a rollercoaster ride throughout the different performances. Despite the indispensable element these musicians bring to the performance, it is the brightly adorned flamenco dancers with their ruffled dresses that mesmerizingly swirl and twist around their bodies which capture the audience’s full attention. The dancers were highly skilled and filled the large room with their exuberant movements across the stage, interspersed with moments of emotional tension to draw in the undivided attention of the crowd. The show was a thrilling display of dance and music, and was very entertaining to behold! However, it felt like a rigidly staged production with an overriding element of superficiality enveloping the entire performance. It was a great show for the mass numbers of tourists that flock to shows each night, and it certainly piqued my interest in flamenco dancing, but I left the show craving to discover a more authentic version elsewhere in the city.

Having visited this touristy exhibition of flamenco, my new goal was to locate an authentic tablao frequented by locals to experience the genuine expression of their culture. I asked various Sevillanos for their recommendations, and the overwhelming response was to visit Los Gallos for an unrivalled performance. This small, nondescript venue was hidden off of a quiet tree-lined plaza and was easy to overlook. As the hour of the show neared, the front doors opened, admitting the small gathering that was congregating in the courtyard. Within the doors was an extremely intimate setting where the audience sat on cozy, cushioned seats that were mere steps from the stage. Making my way to the second row, I found the perfect spot for the upcoming performance. Soon the musicians made their way to the stage, and I sat with bated breath waiting for the performance to begin as I recalled the show I had witnessed the previous evening. The men began their cadence of claps and stomps which heightened when the strummed guitars began to emit their mournful cries. As the music crescendoed around the audience and perceptibly began to tug on our heartstrings, the atmosphere on the stage was palpable. Amidst this scene, the first flamenco dancer gracefully emerged and allowed the music to suffuse into her very existence and influence her skillful movements as she began to dance.

The flamenco dancer is a strong-willed woman who stands dignifiedly on the stage; her body becomes the vessel through which generations of heartache are expressed in a physically interpretive dance. Her arms become an extension of her pain and sorrow as she rhythmically twists and claps while stomping across the stage. Her face is hardened in a proud yet stoic expression as the musicians belt out a lyrical verse describing overwhelming sorrows of the past and the strength of continued perseverance. The entire audience is enraptured by the majestic display on stage as the dancer gracefully lifts up the bottom of her long, flowing dress and breaks into a lightning speed crescendo of foot tapping and stomping, leaving everyone utterly breathless. I was so close to the stage that I could feel the rush of wind with each quick swirl of her billowing dress, further drawing me into the dramatic display unfolding before me. This magical juxtaposition of melancholic music and energetic dance evokes the sadness of a downtrodden existence mixed with the determination to overcome any obstacle. For it is within this very scene that I finally experience the Spanish definition of duende, an expression of passion and inspiration produced by the emotive artistry of authentic flamenco.

As the show continued and other flamenco dancers took their turns on the stage to regale the audience with their own renditions of inspiring dance, I sat entranced the entire time. The enigmatic dancers were weaving their spell as they each told their portion of the collective history of prior generations through their expressive art. Once the show came to a conclusion, the audience sat in awed silence for a few moments before the spell was finally broken, and then everyone jumped to their feet in a burst of joyous applause. I will always remember both nights of flamenco shows that I attended while in Seville, but let me implore you to venture off the well-trodden tourist path and explore the hidden alleyways, for it is there that the true heart and culture of a city can be found!


Performers at El Palacio Andaluz

El Palacio Andaluz venue

Performers at Los Gallos

Los Gallos venue

Saturday, August 8, 2020

Boating Amongst the Dragons


Halong Bay was recently voted as one of the New Seven Natural Wonders of the world in addition to already being designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This internationally acclaimed locale lies off the coast of Vietnam and forms the spectacular backdrop for my next adventure. Having spent several days immersing myself in the fast-paced culture of the bustling metropolis of Hanoi, all while dodging hundreds of careening motorbikes every time I tried to cross a street like a real-life game of Frogger, this excursion to the peaceful coastal region was a welcome reprieve. Upon arriving at the edge of the bay, we boarded our overnight boat and settled into our cabins, excited for the next leg of the trip.

Soon afterwards we set sail, and headed out to venture deeper into the bay. “Halong” literally translates to “descending dragon” which derives from all of the rock formations jutting out of the water. The natural karst landscape purportedly resembles green dragon scales protruding from the water, and ties in with the mythological story of a mother dragon and her children that saved Vietnam from invaders by dropping jewels of jade from their mouths which formed the numerous rocky islands and subsequently caused the armada to shipwreck. Few places can live up to the hype of such a fantastical story, but once we started sailing deep into the expansive bay, we began to see the fabled formations slowly approaching. The further we headed into the bay, the more impressive the scenery became. The sea was simply littered with these green, rocky formations that stretched to the horizon in all directions, and the view was stunning. I found myself mesmerized by the landscape and kept taking photographs of the ever-changing panorama, but could never do it justice through the camera lens.

After a couple hours of navigating through the endless maze of craggy islands, it was time to experience the bay on a more personal level. We stepped off the boat and into kayaks, allowing us to experience the bay from water level. This new perspective removed the safety of the large vessel and caused us to feel infinitesimal as we rowed among the rock giants. The water was surprisingly calm as we glided along the surface, allowing us to concentrate on examining the limestone islands up close without fear of capsizing. The islands were blanketed in shrubs and other greenery which were teeming with wildlife – birds were flittering about the trees while a cacophony of insects was buzzing in the background. Floating along the water was a serene experience, and I was grateful for this up-close view that most day-trippers to the bay never get to experience.

After the evening’s excursion on the kayaks, my arms were sore from the exertion of rowing, and I was appreciative when I was finally able to sink into bed and be lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the boat. While the day had been unforgettable, there was fortunately another day on the water to look forward to in the morning.

The next morning, I awoke feeling refreshed and ready to explore more of the island landscape dotting the bay. Our first stop was Sung Sot (Surprise) Cave which was located in a massive karst island that created its own small harbor within the bay. A long winding path wound along the exterior of the cliffs, leading toward a large opening in the limestone rock face. Upon entering the mouth of the cave, I followed the tunnel until I emerged into one of the largest underground caverns that I had ever seen. The vast room exceeded 10,000 square meters in size and felt like I had wandered into a colossal cathedral as my footsteps echoed throughout the cave. Colorful lights illuminated the numerous stalagmites and stalactites, resembling daylight filtered through stained glass windows, further adding to the allusion of stepping within a majestic cathedral. I gradually ambled through the entirety of the massive cavern, peering down long-forgotten tunnels and admiring the captivating natural structures that formed over several millennia.

Upon exiting the cave, we got back onto our boat and sailed to Ti Top island for the preeminent view within all of Halong Bay. This view can only be experienced by first climbing over 400 uneven steps to the top of the island, ensuring that only the most determined will be rewarded the spectacular view. Upon reaching the lookout point, I was thrust into a 360-degree panorama of the bay, haphazardly strewn with jade islands as far as the eye could see. The islands starkly contrasted against the intense blue shades of the sky and water, creating a picturesque landscape straight from Vietnamese mythology. I stood completely absorbed by this view, not wanting to avert my eyes from this otherworldly topography lest I fail to commit it to memory. Eventually it was time to depart, so I begrudgingly descended from the clifftop and headed back to the boat.

During these past couple days, I had floated amongst the dragons of the sea, climbed atop their precariously high scales, and explored the dark realms of their underworld. Living amidst this wonder of nature was an awe-inspiring and unforgettable experience that I will forever treasure. While Vietnam was filled with many wonderful moments, Halong Bay stands out as my favorite experience during my entire visit.

The beautiful islands of Halong Bay

Sailing among the karst landscape

Taking a break from kayaking to explore an island

View from atop Ti Top island

Relaxing on the beach at Ti Top island

The multicolored illumination of Sung Sot Cave