My Travels To Date

My Travels To Date
My travels to date -- so much left to see!

Saturday, August 29, 2020

The Murderous Garmina

Traveling through continental Europe by rental car is surprisingly easy and convenient. Effortless access to rental cars at the airports and an efficient highway system on which to drive them throughout the various countries make this a seamless process. Despite some websites claiming that you will need to obtain an International Driver’s Permit (IDP) from a local AAA office prior to your trip, I have never found this added expense to be necessary – a basic US driver’s license has been sufficient every single time I have rented a car in Europe. You may remember my struggles with driving on the left side of the road in Ireland, but that particular difficulty is isolated to the British Isles; just like the majority of the world, mainland Europe drives on the right side of the road which makes for easy acclimatization for road-tripping Americans. The final vital component for a successful highway adventure is an updated GPS navigation system with European maps pre-loaded (or a phone with an excellent international plan as an alternative). Enter Garmina, our steadfast guide and occasional archnemesis who frequently seemed to be plotting our untimely demise.

While driving through the Loire Valley in northern France on one trip, we visited several magnificent chateaux each day, traversing along the scenic backroads without any incidents. However, one day we planned to see the off-the-beaten-path troglodyte Château de Brézé, which has a vast subterranean portion of the castle built deep into the soft limestone tufa. I’m unsure what incited Garmina to morph from a disinterested navigator into a vindictive murderer, but it was on our journey to this chateau that her true form appeared. While driving through the rural roads of the French countryside, there was an empty portion of the map that we were being led toward. Without warning, the road abruptly ended at the edge of a meadow where we clearly were not intended to drive our car. With much conviction, Garmina insisted that we continue to drive straight ahead along her imaginary road, despite the obvious lack of asphalt. And that’s when we noticed the large bilingual road sign that was conspicuously placed to be unmissable while also blocking any path forward. It was not your standard “No Trespassing” sign, by any means. Instead, the sign boldly stated in red and black letters:

“DANGER – MILITARY LAND – UNEXPLOSED PROJECTILES ON THE RANGES – DO NOT LEAVE THE ROAD”


Despite its lack of being an actual word, the definition of “unexplosed” came through loud and clear. I wasn’t about to confront fate over a misspelling and fall victim to the evil machinations of my GPS device. Instead, we backtracked and took several narrow offshooting farm lanes in an effort to bypass the minefield. But every time that Garmina decided to reroute our path, she perpetually led us back to yet another entrance to the death trap. Perhaps she was experiencing some perverse form of sadistic excitement by leading us once more unto the breach of a former battleground to bravely join the fray, but I preferred the monotony of staying alive. In a self-preserving manner, we had to mute the homicidal maniac and follow our own detour around the military zone, eventually escaping certain death and coming out victorious by discovering our destination. I had previously been grateful to have an authoritative voice guiding me throughout this foreign land, but now I realized that the seductive Garmina was not to be trusted and had become a loathed rival after the shock of our nasty breakup finally came to realization. And yet, as much as we despised each other, we also needed each other to accomplish our individual purposes…

After surviving Garmina’s failed attempt to blow our car to smithereens, we cautiously made it through the rest of the vacation without any further incidents. Having reconciled our differences at the completion of the vacation, we decided to let Garmina redeem herself during a future road trip through Italy. Similarly to the previous trip, Garmina started out wonderfully helpful, using her sultry voice to direct us from town to town until we ultimately arrived in the city of Naples. While we were driving along the main thoroughfare of the city on a pleasant weekend afternoon, Garmina abruptly interrupted our conversation and began redirecting us along an alternate route for no obvious reason. Fearing an unseen accident or road closure ahead, we faithfully changed course and let our path be dictated by the omniscient guide. At the next intersection we approached a one-way street, onto which Garmina commandingly told us to turn, and so without hesitation we turned the corner and came face to face with an unexpected sight.

As far as the eye could see down the long stretch of road was an outdoor market lined with stalls and hundreds of locals out shopping. The side street was narrow and left virtually no room to proceed amongst the shoppers. Furthermore, since this was a one-way street, there was absolutely no hope of turning around and escaping from whence we came, especially after another small vehicle blindly followed us around the corner, thereby robbing us of our last ditch opportunity to reverse and make a hasty getaway. Faced with no alternatives, we bravely forged a path into the bustling market. The pedestrians had to press up against the sides of the stalls as we inched forward, and occasionally the shopkeepers even had to move their wares to prevent them from being knocked over. We received numerous death stares from vendors and shoppers as we passed, and I sunk down into my passenger seat to avoid seeing the wrath of the outside world. Had the stalls been filled with items other than fresh fish and local produce, I might have rolled down my window, browsed the contents from my car seat, and haggled for a fair price while doing a slow drive-by. But as it was, I was filled with such embarrassment that I couldn’t even make eye contact with the vendors as I hid in my seat.

After what seemed like the longest stretch of road we’d ever driven, during which we narrowly avoided taking out several hobbling grandmothers in the process, the outdoor market finally dissipated and then came to an end. At last, freedom was within sight! We finally emerged from the market after a white-knuckled drive through the gauntlet, and somehow survived to tell our tale without any casualties. Breathing a deep sigh of relief at withstanding the humiliating ordeal, we continued down the path until Garmina decided to break the silence and resume speaking. She unapologetically demanded that we turn at the next intersection and rejoin our initial path from which we had been diverted by our evil mistress. Once we got back on the main road through town, we could clearly see that there had been no accident or slowdown of any kind – the sparse traffic was moving along at a steady pace without obstruction. Apparently our 20 minute detour through a crowded street market had been part of Garmina’s diabolical plan all along to make us suffer and remind us who was truly in charge of our trip. Even though we pulled through unscathed, Garmina had won her small victory yet again.

Gluttons for punishment, we continue to bring Garmina with us on future vacations, where she repeatedly rebels from her designated “third wheel” status in this relationship and tries to sabotage our road trips across Europe. In Germany, she blatantly disregarded the posted road signs and told us to continue onto a highway that had been partially closed for construction work. Had we been able to understand the German language signs, we may have been able to prevent this disaster, but she knew that we could not read German and were therefore unable to prevent the impending trap. As a result of surviving another of Garmina’s schemes, the German word for detour (umleitung) has been deeply burned into my memory, surprisingly coming in handy on numerous occasions during the rest of the trip and allowing us to circumvent any further shenanigans by Garmina. Or that one time in Spain where Garmina knowingly guided our car down an unmarked pedestrian alley through the mazelike center of town which gradually became so narrow that even with our side view mirrors folded inward, there was no physical way of advancing. We were forced to reverse around multiple tight corners for several blocks until we were back on a true road again, which was a harrowing experience.

Despite these distressing driving mishaps that seem to happen with regularity on our European road trips, I would never give up the opportunity to forge our own path through a foreign land. Driving gives you a freedom you can’t get with public transportation or tour groups, and allows you to spontaneously make detours and stop at any roadside attraction or oddity that you stumble across while driving to your next destination. And even if you happen to get into a bit of a bind while traveling, this only serves to give you an unforgettable story to regale others with in the future! And this all serves to show that you really need to pick your travel companions with care – especially when it comes to navigation systems like our dear Garmina!


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