An Introvert Explores the World: The Duende of Flamenco

The Andalusian region in southern Spain is one of my favorite regions in all of Europe for multiple reasons. Moorish-style buildings dominate the architectural landscape with their intricately carved designs of geometric shapes and calligraphy, interspersed with beautiful arches that evoke awe in the observer. Gastronomic appetites are satiated with dishes of jamón ibérico (cured Iberian ham), croquetas, tortilla de patatas (potato quiche), and churros con chocolat for dessert. And who could forget marzipan, the sweet nectar of the gods handmade by local nuns and sold from behind stone convent walls via a rotating turntable contraption to maintain their cloistered sabbatical from outside interaction. But the true heart and soul of Andalusia is expressed through the artistry of the flamenco dance, which can be experienced at tablao venues throughout the region.

No visit to Andalusia is complete without attending at least one flamenco show, and Seville has the best offerings around. From flashy productions that attract large numbers of tourists each night, to intimate stages where the audience is practically within arm’s reach of the performers, there is a wide array of options to experience a flamenco show. Since I was spending several nights in the city of Seville, I opted to attend two vastly different flamenco shows to get a better perspective of the offerings.

For my first venture into the world of flamenco, I decided to go with the touristy “dinner and a show” flamenco experience at El Palacio Andaluz. This is the most heavily advertised show in the city, drawing in the largest number of spectators that want an easily accessible taste of culture. The venue was located in a large ballroom packed with dinner tables for all of the tourists who are looking for a nicely packaged experience handed to them on a platter. Upon being escorted to my assigned table, I was handed an English menu and I made my meal selection. Next up in the rotation of employees was a photographer entreating me to smile and pose for the camera, shortly followed by a sales pitch about the different options for purchasing my souvenir photograph. Next came the waiters bringing the standard dinner fare as the show was about the begin.

The lights dimmed and the performers made their grand entrance onto the stage with much gusto and flair. The standard flamenco show includes several guitarists sitting in the background, so as not to detract attention from the female performers. The guitarists blend mournful vocals and well-timed handclaps and foot stomps to add intensity to the music. While typically relegated to be background, they perform an integral role in creating the soulful music that draws at your heartstrings and pulls your emotions along a rollercoaster ride throughout the different performances. Despite the indispensable element these musicians bring to the performance, it is the brightly adorned flamenco dancers with their ruffled dresses that mesmerizingly swirl and twist around their bodies which capture the audience’s full attention. The dancers were highly skilled and filled the large room with their exuberant movements across the stage, interspersed with moments of emotional tension to draw in the undivided attention of the crowd. The show was a thrilling display of dance and music, and was very entertaining to behold! However, it felt like a rigidly staged production with an overriding element of superficiality enveloping the entire performance. It was a great show for the mass numbers of tourists that flock to shows each night, and it certainly piqued my interest in flamenco dancing, but I left the show craving to discover a more authentic version elsewhere in the city.

Having visited this touristy exhibition of flamenco, my new goal was to locate an authentic tablao frequented by locals to experience the genuine expression of their culture. I asked various Sevillanos for their recommendations, and the overwhelming response was to visit Los Gallos for an unrivalled performance. This small, nondescript venue was hidden off of a quiet tree-lined plaza and was easy to overlook. As the hour of the show neared, the front doors opened, admitting the small gathering that was congregating in the courtyard. Within the doors was an extremely intimate setting where the audience sat on cozy, cushioned seats that were mere steps from the stage. Making my way to the second row, I found the perfect spot for the upcoming performance. Soon the musicians made their way to the stage, and I sat with bated breath waiting for the performance to begin as I recalled the show I had witnessed the previous evening. The men began their cadence of claps and stomps which heightened when the strummed guitars began to emit their mournful cries. As the music crescendoed around the audience and perceptibly began to tug on our heartstrings, the atmosphere on the stage was palpable. Amidst this scene, the first flamenco dancer gracefully emerged and allowed the music to suffuse into her very existence and influence her skillful movements as she began to dance.

The flamenco dancer is a strong-willed woman who stands dignifiedly on the stage; her body becomes the vessel through which generations of heartache are expressed in a physically interpretive dance. Her arms become an extension of her pain and sorrow as she rhythmically twists and claps while stomping across the stage. Her face is hardened in a proud yet stoic expression as the musicians belt out a lyrical verse describing overwhelming sorrows of the past and the strength of continued perseverance. The entire audience is enraptured by the majestic display on stage as the dancer gracefully lifts up the bottom of her long, flowing dress and breaks into a lightning speed crescendo of foot tapping and stomping, leaving everyone utterly breathless. I was so close to the stage that I could feel the rush of wind with each quick swirl of her billowing dress, further drawing me into the dramatic display unfolding before me. This magical juxtaposition of melancholic music and energetic dance evokes the sadness of a downtrodden existence mixed with the determination to overcome any obstacle. For it is within this very scene that I finally experience the Spanish definition of duende, an expression of passion and inspiration produced by the emotive artistry of authentic flamenco.

As the show continued and other flamenco dancers took their turns on the stage to regale the audience with their own renditions of inspiring dance, I sat entranced the entire time. The enigmatic dancers were weaving their spell as they each told their portion of the collective history of prior generations through their expressive art. Once the show came to a conclusion, the audience sat in awed silence for a few moments before the spell was finally broken, and then everyone jumped to their feet in a burst of joyous applause. I will always remember both nights of flamenco shows that I attended while in Seville, but let me implore you to venture off the well-trodden tourist path and explore the hidden alleyways, for it is there that the true heart and culture of a city can be found!