An Introvert Explores the World: Petra and the Last Crusade

Picture the scene – Indiana Jones has discovered the highly treasured Holy Grail, only to lose it again in a twist of fate. With the ancient temple collapsing around him, Jones can be seen escaping as a plume of smoke envelops the entrance. He then jumps astride his trusty horse, and rides off into the distance as the credits roll. Back in 1989 when this movie was released, the exotic location of this desert temple was unbeknownst to many, whereas now it is practically a household name. While Indiana Jones has undoubtedly brought considerable recognition to this foreign locale, Petra is now one of the world’s most famous and spectacular archaeological sites, even earning a place amongst the New Seven Wonders of the World. And it is into this movie scene that I was able to spend a couple days extensively wandering through on a trip to Jordan several years ago.

Donning my wide-brimmed Tilley hat that vaguely resembles a knock-off of Indiana Jones’ fedora, I lathered on my 100+ SPF sunscreen and stepped through the turnstile to enter the Petra Archaeological Park. One could be forgiven for thinking that the wonders of Petra would be just on the other side of the turnstile, but nothing could be further from the truth. Upon exiting the visitor center, there is a one kilometer stretch of unpaved road to traverse in the blazing sun, with precious little to see along this unshaded route. At the end of this tiring portion of the walk, the entrance to the siq looms mysteriously ahead. The siq is a narrow canyon with high walls created by a geological fault split apart by tectonic forces many eons ago. Entering this gaping crack in the wall, I am explicitly aware of the sensation of passing through a portal into a different dimension. The rough surfaces of the canyon have become smooth over the centuries from water erosion, as far-fetched as that sounds out here in the dry desert. Following the winding path for over another kilometer, I am shaded from the heat of intense sun and able to marvel at the beauty of nature’s creation. Every few minutes, the sound of hoofbeats can be heard echoing through the ravine, warning of an approaching horse-drawn buggy laden with weary passengers wishing to bypass the grueling walk.

Horse-drawn buggies passing through the narrow siq

After countless dizzying twists and bends through the dramatic canyon, there is a heightened sense of anticipation as the end approaches. There in the distance, just barely seen through a crack in the walls, the traces of a manmade structure begin to emerge. Gradually the faint mirage begins to take shape, as more of the edifice becomes visible through the lens of the canyon walls. At last the path through the siq abruptly ends and the walls fall away, opening up to a massive fantastical building looming overhead. Carved directly into the sandstone cliff walls is the columned façade of a Greco-Roman style building called Al-Khazneh (The Treasury), built by the Nabataeans over 2000 years ago. Unfazed by the gawping visitors, several camels are calmly resting on the sand in front of this building, completely oblivious to the carved wonder that they are sitting beside. Despite what the movies would have you believe, there is no vast temple complex within the structure; on the contrary, there is just a single empty room that is believed to have been the mausoleum of a Nabataean king. While there may not be a Holy Grail hidden within The Treasury, the real treasure to be found is this beautiful and vast archaeological complex that I have just set foot within.

The Treasury is becoming visible through the siq

Admiring The Treasury

Having finished marveling at the Treasury, I turned to the right and continued to follow the dusty path. The sandstone has a pinkish-orange hue, giving Petra the nickname The Rose City because of the countless structures carved into this colorful rockface. Gradually, more of the buildings become visible, indicating that this used to be a significant trading city many centuries ago. Most of the structures are a simple rectangular shape with few identifying features aside from a strip of geometrical designs across the top of each building. Venturing into several of these, I notice that they are virtually all just a single room with an occasional niche or two carved into the walls. While there are few identifiable features of individual past lives, I try to envision life back in the day, living amidst this bustling metropolis of a major trading city along the Silk Road.

Numerous rock hewn buildings within Petra

Continuing further along the road gives me a better understanding of the daily lives the ancient Nabataeans led. The main thoroughfare within this ancient city is an additional two kilometers, along which many fascinating ruins can be found. There is a Roman amphitheater where large crowds gathered for entertainment, and a long stretch of colonnaded road that still remains from when the Romans expanded their empire and engulfed what is modern day Jordan. A Byzantine Church houses an impressively preserved collection of decorative tile mosaics along the excavated floors, indicating the role that religious worship played in the lives of these inhabitants. And the remains of the largest structure in Petra – the Great Temple – is a multi-level complex that covers a vast swathe of land where the administrative officials likely gathered to rule this city. But the true highlight of Petra’s wonders lies even beyond all of these structures and requires considerable determination to reach.

A local Bedouin surveying the vast expanse of Petra (and the mountain in the distance upon which The Monastery is located)

Some more of the rock dwellings within Petra

The remains of a Roman colonnade

Upon reaching the end of the desert trail, I began the final segment of my journey. Standing between me and victory lay a steep and windy uphill climb consisting of over 800 rugged steps to scale. There were two options available to proceed -- an arduous climb up the side of the mountain by foot, or seated astride a cantankerous donkey for the cost of a few paltry dinars. So of course, I chose the donkey, knowing that I could ascend this insurmountable obstacle and reach my destination in style, just like Indiana Jones did! This poor beast of burden had the unenviable task of carrying me up the mountain like a hefty sack of potatoes. No sooner had I mounted my noble steed, when he lurched forward and began to lumber away from the group, eager to proceed. Upon being rounded back up, my steed rejoined the small caravan of donkeys which trudged forward, beginning the ascent up the steps. What the guide failed to mention at the outset of the journey was that I would be trusting my life to the unsure footing of this ornery beast while he stumbled up the treacherous steps. Every time we overtook a pedestrian on the path, the donkey edged around the hiker, getting dangerously close to the precipitous cliff edge. One misstep and I would go from merely dangling over the edge to tumbling down to my certain death. I suddenly became a backseat driver, critiquing each step that the donkey took and judging each unbalanced stumble while looking for better footing. But of course, he couldn’t understand my pleas as he plodded forward, unconcerned for my wellbeing.

Beginning the ascent up the mountainside via donkey

After many near death experiences where I saw my all-too-short life flash before my eyes, my donkey finally rounded the last bend in the path and clambered up the last stretch of the trail with a little extra pep in his step, knowing that he would soon get to relax and receive a special treat to munch on. And just like in the movies, the dramatic finale music crescendoed to a heart-pounding climax as the prized object came into view at long last. Rising from the desert sands was the monumental Ad Deir (The Monastery) building, one of the finest examples of rock-carved temples within the entire archaeological site. For here was the true holy grail within Petra – a beautiful temple that was built in the first century AD for religious ceremonies, and remains in remarkable condition even today. Scarcely anyone had traversed the arduous path and made it to the summit upon which I stood, allowing me to feel like I was a lone wanderer who conquered the desert’s dangers and succeeded against all odds at discovering a lost treasure forgotten by history. I proudly stood in front of the Monastery and admired the massive structure and the amount of skill that it must have taken an ancient civilization to build, fully understanding the indisputable ranking that Petra holds as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Upon awakening from my reverie, I slowly came to my senses and realized that as exhausted as I was, I was only halfway through my journey – for I now had to retrace every step through the miles of barren desert on my path to exit the site. And away I plodded into the distance, acutely aware of my aching feet and tired muscles, but not wanting to trade this experience for anything.

End scene and cue the credits.