An Introvert Explores the World: Monkey Business

Close your eyes and picture this if you will – a land plagued by drought and famine, rife with warring civil factions, and beset with innumerable starving children living in squalor. This is exactly the image that people conceive when asked to describe Ethiopia, a country in eastern Africa that was brought to the forefront of western attention through the Live Aid concert where dozens of leading artists sang “We Are the World” to an audience feeling guilty for their own excesses in the face of such deprivation.

Now, open your eyes and try to reconcile that outdated vision with the current surroundings in which I find myself situated. Deep within the wilds of the Simien Mountains National Park located in the northern region of Ethiopia lies the most fertile version of the Grand Canyon I have ever seen. Mountains stretch out to the horizon, entirely covered with lush alpine forests filled with the sound of birds chirping and leaves rustling. The fresh, clean air retains a slight chill leftover from the nighttime freezing temperatures which are slowly being washed away by the rising sun.

I am on a guided hike through this peaceful idyll, trekking across wooded peaks and admiring the stunningly beautiful scenery and my unsure footing at the same time. For inherently coupled with soaring mountain ridges come the perilously steep cliffs along which we tread. Only by stepping to the edge can you truly appreciate the splendor of the land while gazing upon the canyon valleys below. My heart swells with the exhilaration of being amidst this natural beauty, and my eyes feast upon every rise and fall of the verdant mountain range. Although this view would deservedly be the highlight of any other mountain expedition, I am in search of something even greater and more elusive today.

Another hour passes and we finally approach an expansive clearing ahead of us, dotted with indistinguishable figures in the distance. Our guide’s eyes and ears perk up as he signals that this is the coveted prize we have been seeking. We gingerly amble forward into the clearing and spread out so as to not appear threatening. For here it is – the highly sought Gelada baboon! These primates are found only in the Ethiopian highlands and have a strongly defined matriarchal hierarchy with males treated as subservient figures on the totem pole. Entirely uninterested in the bipeds which are slowly approaching the multitudinous groups of baboons, these small-group societies continue on with their daily lives.

I separate from my group and crouch down on the ground to observe these magnificent creatures and their intriguing habits, remaining wary of my surroundings and the sharp fangs occasionally on display when the baboons irritate each other. What may seem mundane to the baboons is fascinating from my fresh perspective – the Gelada are grooming and preening each other, yanking handfuls of grass from the ground to eat, and sauntering around the hillside. Babies are clutching onto their mothers and nursing from their distinctive, bright red breasts, while being gently caressed in a show of motherly devotion. Unconcerned with my intrusion, other baboon children are running around and chasing each other in a carefree manner, showing off their playful spirit. I could sit here for hours, watching the dozens of Gelada baboons simply living life.

After snapping countless photos and treasuring every moment amongst these captivating creatures, the herd followed an unseen signal and started drifting father along to the opposite side of the clearing. Always on the prowl for fresh grasslands amongst the mountains, the groups don’t stay in the same location for prolonged periods of time. So, too, must I rejoin my group and head back the way we came. Despite this encounter lasting merely an hour, these were sixty unforgettable minutes that will forever be etched in my mind as my most memorable experience in all of Ethiopia.

I never knew such beauty could be found in Ethiopia, and I was wholly unprepared for the impact that this excursion into the heights of the Simien Mountains would have on me. I saw unrivalled wonders throughout Ethiopia, including the monolithic stelae at Axum, the medieval stone castles of Gondar, the vividly colorful monasteries of Lake Tana, and the ancient rock-hewn churches of Lalibela. But during all of my travels throughout this wonderful country, the morning I spent amongst the Gelada baboons remains unrivaled as my favorite experience and still brings a smile to my face. Nowadays, whenever I close my eyes and think of Ethiopia, I only see unparalleled beauty and wondrous sights in my mind’s eye.