I'm sure most of you are thinking, "Oh great, another unprepared hiker trying to traverse the length of the Incan Trail while making a fool of himself instead!" Well, here I must stop you in your tracks and tell you that you are most definitely wrong. I know my own limitations, and I know that a multiday hike with no preparation is among them, so this was not on the agenda. I opted for the easy way out -- by air-conditioned train with attendants serving me food and drinks along the way. But before we get to any of that, let me get back on track and resume my story from the beginning...
After an uneventful flight to Peru, I landed in the mountainous city of Cusco and stepped off the plane in a land closer to heaven than any I'd ever been. Literally. I realized that I might have a few more troubles than anticipated at this high altitude above 11,000 feet when I took one deep breath while enjoying the beauty of this country, and instantly wondered where the oxygen had gone. My lungs were thrown into a panic as I continued to breathe this oxygen-deprived air, and my brain became a little light-headed at the realization that I was likely going to die in a matter of minutes from asphyxiation.
Somehow I managed to gradually acclimate to the altitude and muster enough strength to grab my bags and head to the nearest taxi stand, while conserving the last of my air to blurt out the name of my hotel with one final gasp. Upon arriving to the hotel, I was graciously given a lifesaving concoction of mate de coca, a tea brewed from coca leaves and reputed to help adjust to the altitude. Whether it be from eventually acclimating to the thin air on my own, or simply from the natural properties of the plant, I started feeling better. I made it up to my room, and decided to relax for a few more minutes until I was sure that I was ready to take on the city and all its sights.
And now for a word of advice -- no matter how acclimated you think you have become within the first few hours of landing in Cusco, do NOT attempt to overexert yourself and climb a mountain. With only 4 full days in Cusco, I decided to waste no time and promptly hired a taxi to transport me to the less-visited Incan city of Pisac high up in the mountains. While sitting in the back seat of the taxi and winding through the narrow mountain roads, I realized this might not have been the brightest idea I've ever had. I had to lay down to offset the motion sickness that was starting to build within my system. After what seemed like hours (but more realistically only lasted 45 minutes), we arrived at the foot of the ruins of Pisac. Wanting to make the best of any situation, I gathered my composure and headed out to venture into my first exposure to the amazing ruins of an extinct civilization. Replete with stunning agricultural terraces sweeping up the mountain, and topped with a perfectly carved stone complex of buildings, Pisac was certainly a sight to behold as I began trekking toward it.
Overcome with the splendor of this place, I fought back both emotions and nausea that were trying to escape. I successfully made it to the base of the buildings, but knew it was a losing battle. I discovered an abandoned corner and paid homage to the Incans the only way I could at that moment in time -- by heaving out the contents of my stomach, with tears streaming down my face from the exertion and emotions roiling through me. I knew that the Incans had bested me. And while I will always have a piece of the exotic history and beauty of Pisac forever embedded in my mind, I feel like I left them a parting gift to forever remember me by as well. Definitely not an equal trade by any means, yet I still feel like I came back the winner of this life-altering venture. Thus, I snapped some photos as a visual reminder of what I could not clearly see through my tear-stained eyes, and gave up on any idea of hiking deeper into the complex. I waved my white flag of surrender, and plodded back to the taxi to endure another winding meander through the mountains back to Cusco, admitting defeat for the day.
As every story must have a happy ending according to the rules, I will delve a bit deeper into this adventure. I eventually DID acclimate further to the atmosphere, and was able to experience the best of Cusco with only excruciating headaches to endure for the remainder of the trip. I packed enough sightseeing into this short trip to make even Phil Keoghan jealous of my amazing race around the sacred valley. Salt mines, agricultural terraces, ancient towns and fortresses, pre-Incan ruins, Spanish influences, exotic delicacies and gourmet foods alike, and awe-inspiring landscapes were all visited in this region, and I loved every minute of it. However, the zenith of any trip to this country is undoubtedly a visit to Machu Picchu. It is absolutely breathtaking, and no words can suffice to describe the experience of overlooking this world wonder while climbing through centuries of history.
I am dying to return to Peru and see what else this diverse country has to offer, but I will learn from my experience and be better prepared next time. Premedicate with acetazolamide, sip mate de coca upon arrival, and GO SLOW! Hopefully these tidbits of advice will prevent anyone else from suffering my same fate.
The ruins of Pisac
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